Hello from Berlin!
We have been here for a little over three weeks now, and the experience has been incredible. Now that the jet lag is long gone and our lives are becoming a bit more routine we can start looking back on everything that we have done and seen since we got here. The day after we arrived we were already on our way to school to begin the orientation week. Our first week of “school” was just a series of meetings, and syllabi reviews but it was intermingled with various tours around the city. We took a boat tour and a walking tour during our first weekend which really helped us get our bearings and showed us a little of what Berlin has to offer.
One of our favorite things about Germany is the food. Berlin is a melting pot of so many different cultures and with that comes the best food from each. Döner is a Berlin staple and it may be the greatest thing I have ever eaten. There are food stands everywhere here and not only is the food amazing but its cheap and quite a few stands are open all night.
Karl and I live with the same host family about an hour away from our school by public transportation. Having to take a train, the subway, and a bus to get to class every morning has been a very new experience. Everyone starts off the school day with a three hour german class from 9-12 every day. Afterwards Karl and I have two and a half hour long subject course in the afternoons on Monday and Thursday. We are taking Exploring Classical Music and Themes and Issues in Transatlantic Relations. Those classes only meet once a week and its kind of nice to get it all out of the way at once. There is no school on Friday’s with the exception of occasional field trips near Berlin. The three day weekends make it much easier to do long distance travel throughout Europe.
Karl and I live on the far west side of Berlin in a district called Charlottenburg. Our host parents’ names are Drago and Maria and they have two daughters who are already out of the house. They have been very understanding of our busy and chaotic schedule and love to help us practice our german around the house. They both speak english well and have taught us quite a bit of conversational german. As we get a little further into our german studies we are going to try to switch over to only german with our hosts but for now we’ll stick to a few words and phrases. We are both excited to see how far our german progresses over the course of the semester.
Karl and I haven’t ventured out of Berlin yet but we have some big travel ideas coming up in the following weeks so look for another blog soon!
Tschüss,
Henry
Salzburg, Frankfurt, Heidelberg, and Prague
On Easter Sunday afternoon, I flew from Berlin to Salzburg for a 3 day trip. A couple of my friends had gone to Salzburg earlier in the program when I was doing something else, so I went alone. But, solo travel turned out to have its own advantages. Not that I prefer it over going with friends, but it was a good experience.
I walked around the city most of Monday, with the help of TripAdvisor to know what to see. There was a big palace and garden area near my hostel called Mirabell Palace:
I wandered around a bit more and crossed the Salzach River, which flows through the city, on one of the foot bridges.
The castle you see above the city is called the Hohensalzburg Fortress, and I went there next. It was first built in 1077. From the top I had a nice view of the mountains surrounding Salzburg.
In the afternoon I went to the Schloss Hellbrun, just outside of Salzburg. It was built as a summer residence for the Archbishop of Salzburg in the 17th century. I didn’t pay to go inside, but the palace grounds had a huge green park with benches so I ate a lunch there and walked the trails a bit. The famous pavilion from the Sound of Music is also located here.
The next day I took an hour bus ride from Salzburg to Berchtesgaden, in the southern tip of Bavaria. My goal was to get a really good view of the mountains, which is the main reason I went to Salzburg. The cable car which takes you up to the very top was under repair, but I could still hike the trails to the mountains, with the Königssee sitting inside.
Back in Salzburg the next day, I saw a couple more places where the Sound of Music was filmed before my flight left in the afternoon back to Berlin. Despite the 100% chance of rain and cold temps I really enjoyed Salzburg and it might end up being my favorite European city.
Two days after I got back from Salzburg, the international program’s nine-day guided tours started. Half went to Cologne and Luxembourg, and I was in the half that went to Frankfurt and Prague, in a group of about 75. Frankfurt is a very industrialized city, with a lot of banks. The skyline doesn’t look like much compared to US skylines, but in a continent that specializes in churches and castles as opposed to skyscrapers, it’s the most prominent skyline of any in Europe. Frankfurt was mostly destroyed in WWII, but there is a cool rebuilt Old Town section in a historical part of the city:
The second day we took a day trip to Heidelberg, about an hour away. Heidelberg has Europe’s oldest university, founded in 1386.
Martin Luther was also in Heidelberg in 1518, where he took part in the “Heidelberg Disputation,” defending his teaching. We translated the disputation in Ecclesiastical Latin with Professor Fredrich freshman year, so it was cool to be there. Heidelberg also has a castle in the side of the hills:
Heidelberg probably turned out to be my favorite German city. Back in Frankfurt for another day we took a tour of the European Central Bank, the center of the Eurozone. The next day we took the train to Prague, Czech Republic. The first morning there we had a guided walking tour of the city, seeing most of the historical places. Here is the main square of the Old Town:
Other things done in Prague included a tour of the museum of Communism history and taking a boat ride through Prague at night, with a live jazz band playing on board. The day before we left back for Berlin, we took a day trip to Karlstejn, an hour and a half outside of Prague, to tour the castle there. It was the castle of Charles IV, King of Bohemia and Holy Roman Emperor, built in 1348. Here is a picture from the top looking down to Karlstejn.
The program’s guided tour was a really nice way to relax, as the semester is wrapping up now. We enjoyed having everything planned out for us, after being on our own for so much small group travel. Back in Berlin, I just finished my term papers on Luther/Bach and Reagan. Writing the paper on Luther and Bach turned out to be a very valuable experience, as I learned all the ways in which Bach’s music is dependent on Luther’s theology. As of today (Friday), I only have 6 more days in Berlin. Tomorrow I am going to Wittenberg for the day with a group from our international program at Freie Universität. Next Thursday I fly to Frankfurt, and Friday morning from there to Minneapolis, getting down to New Ulm in time for my sister Megan’s graduation on Saturday. I very much look forward to being back at MLC for these couple days. It’s hard to believe my semester here is just about over – I am beyond grateful for the experience it’s been and that God has kept me safe the entire way.
Tschüss,
Collin
Weeks 9-11: Eisenach, Leipzig
The days are continuing to fly by in Berlin, with so much to do in the last few weeks here. On the first weekend after Spring Break, I went to Eisenach, which is about a five and a half hour bus ride from Berlin. Eisenach is a very small town in Thuringia, a state in the middle of Germany. J.S. Bach was born in Eisenach in 1685, but I was primarily there to see the Wartburg Castle, which sits on a hill in the Thuringian Forest. After I arrived on Saturday afternoon and checked into my hostel, I walked down to the Lutherhaus at Lutherplatz, in the main part of the city.
This was the house of the Cotta family, with whom Luther stayed during his pre-University schooling in Eisenach from 1498 to 1501. This was about 20 years before he was brought to stay at the Wartburg. I got to go inside the house and see the room where Luther lived.
After this I walked to the Bachhaus. Here there is a museum set up for the history of Bach, and Baroque music performances occur there every hour. Unfortunately, I got there too late to hear the last one, but I learned a lot about perhaps the greatest composer ever to live. I walked around Eisenach for most of the rest of the evening. The town is so distinctly German-looking compared to any of the other German cities I’ve been in. If I didn’t feel like I was in Germany before this, Eisenach dispelled all doubts.
The next morning after checking out of the hostel I took a 10 minute bus ride to the foot of the Thuringian Forest beneath the Wartburg. From there it was a lot of steps and ramps uphill to the castle. It was so cool to actually be there. I learned that so much history has unfolded at the castle throughout the centuries, with Luther being one of the most famous. I asked a kind-enough-looking German stranger to take my picture from the observation point before going on to the castle grounds.
Once through the arched gate, I found where Martin Luther’s study was, in the second story of one of the castle buildings. This is the place where he translated the New Testament from Greek into German. It was pretty incredible to be able to go inside and stand in that room.
After Luther’s room, I saw a tour group from England and tagged along behind them as they toured the castle building which holds the grand hall and a chapel. After leaving the Wartburg, I had enough time before my bus left for Berlin to briefly visit Georgenkirche, where Bach often played organ, and where Luther preached on a Sunday in May 1521 before he stayed at the Wartburg.
I spent last Sunday (the 9th) in Leipzig, a two hour bus ride from Berlin. Leipzig is a larger city than Eisenach, and is where J.S. Bach spent a lot of his career. When I arrived I headed towards the Nikolaikirche, which was the principal church in Leipzig in Bach’s day. One of Bach’s two surviving passions – St. John Passion – was first performed here. (Side note – last Friday I had the opportunity to attend a performance of Bach’s other passion – St. Matthew Passion – at the Berlin Dome. It was one of the coolest things I’ve ever experienced.) Unfortunately Nikolaikirche was temporarily closed to visitors. Next I went to Thomaskirche, the most famous of Leipzig’s churches and the reason I wanted to visit Leipzig. Bach also worked at this church, where he wrote music for worship and directed the choir.
His remains were moved to the church after the church of his original grave was bombed in World War II. Martin Luther was also at Thomaskirche, where he preached from this pulpit on Pentecost Sunday in 1539.
Other things I did in Leipzig included visiting the Mendelssohn Haus, seeing a monument to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, and going to the top of the Panorama tower for a view of Leipzig.
My bus left back for Berlin in the late afternoon. In between weekends I spend a lot of required time on my term papers for my music and history classes. For music, I am writing about how Martin Luther’s theology and music influenced the theological content of Bach’s works. For history, I am writing on the composition of Ronald Reagan’s speech in Berlin in front of the Berlin Wall and Brandenburg Gate. There are plenty of resources for both of these topics, but getting hold of them has been difficult – Freie Universität has fifteen different libraries spread throughout its huge campus. FIFTEEN. It makes tracking down what I need a headache. Suffice to say I’m using a lot of online resources.
I had the opportunity to attend Easter worship at the congregation of the WELS’ sister synod – the ELFK – in Berlin. On Easter afternoon I flew to Salzburg for a 3-day trip. At the end of this week, the international program’s nine-day tour of Frankfurt, Heidelberg, and Prague starts. By the time we get back to Berlin, I’ll only have one more week of classes, a trip to Wittenberg, and exam week before my semester here is over. That’s all for now – watch for the next blog about the tour!
Tschüss,
Collin
Spring break, parts 2 and 3: Rome and Paris
I am back in Berlin after a great spring break, completely exhausted but thankful for the unbelievable amount of things I saw and did over the course of ten days. I wrote about the first three days (Athens) in my last post, so I will tell you about Rome and Paris in this post.
I spent my first day in Rome by visiting the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, the largest church in Rome dedicated to Mary, and walked down to the Colosseum in the evening. I did not go inside at this time because most major sites close by 5:00, but I walked around it looked at the Arc of Constantine and a few other things near the Palatine Hill, where the Roman Forum was situated. The next morning I met up with two of my friends from the international program in Berlin and we walked around the city all day. We started at the Pantheon, which was very impressive on the inside, and wandered from there to the Fountain di Trevi, one of the most famous fountains in the world. After walking through Piazza Navona we got to Castel Sant’Angelo and the Sant’Angelo Bridge, which are very close to the Vatican. After lunch we entered the Vatican and walked around St. Peter’s Square.
After a little while we took the long walk from the Vatican down to the Colosseum and paid the admission price to go inside. The Colosseum looks so huge from the outside that it looked somewhat smaller on the inside than I imagined, but I’m sure that didn’t subtract from the intense gladiatorial contests, mock sea battles, and executions which some 60-70,000 people crowded inside to see during the first centuries A.D. The original ground floor is no longer there, exposing the underground passageways and cages where gladiators and animals were kept before being brought up to the arena.
Later in the evening we got dinner at a restaurant in a piazza called Trilussa, which was one of those areas with narrow, winding streets that many people think of when they think of Italy. I had my first authentic Italian meal there, and it was as good as they say it is. The next day we took a train from Rome down to Naples central station. It was about a 3 hour ride, but the landscape between Rome and Naples was beautiful. From Naples it was a separate 20 minute train ride to Pompeii, which has a modern city but we were there for the ancient city, which was destroyed and buried in volcanic ash by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 A.D. Seeing the ruins of walls, streets, and buildings, and also preserved human figures was all very moving.
Back in Rome the next day, I went back to the Vatican having a ticket for entrance to the Vatican museums (which aren’t really museums, as much as they are former residences of popes which hold one of the greatest collections of art in the world), the Sistine Chapel with Michelangelo’s painted ceiling, and St. Peter’s Basilica. Michelangelo’s Pietà is kept in the basilica:
This was all so incredible to see, and it took 5 hours to cover everything. For the second half of the day we caught a train down to Lago Albano – a volcanic crater lake – at Castel Gandolfo, which is a small town 45 minutes south of Rome where the pope spends the summer. There was not too much to do here besides sit by the lake and find a restaurant for dinner, but it was a nice relaxing end to the four days in Rome. (pic)
On Friday morning I flew from Rome to Paris for the last couple days of break. After checking into my hostel, I walked around the area a lot. Paris is a very expensive city when compared to Berlin. I ended up buying some fruit for lunch – but even apples and bananas cost twice as much as what I’m used to in the U.S. I took the metro down to the Eiffel Tower in the evening, bought a Nutella crêpe from a food stand for dinner, and sat in a park opposite the tower watching the lights go on the tower. You can walk right up underneath the tower and pay to take an elevator up to the very top, but it was sort of expensive and the line was too long. Still, it was cool to see the tower. I wrote a report on its history in 7th grade but never thought I’d be there.
The next day I visited some of the other famous sites in Paris, starting at the garden area at the Louvre. I walked from there to the little island on the Seine River on which Notre Dame cathedral is situated. Notre Dame is one of the largest churches in the world, and the inside – the Gothic architecture with huge stained glass windows – was very impressive. I went from there to the Luxembourg Gardens, which was a very large, green area in the middle of the city. It was nice to see some trees and grass for a change!
The next day after I checked out of the hostel I had a few hours to burn before my flight back to Berlin, so I went down to see the Arc de Triomphe, and then walked up the Montmartre hill, the highest point of the city. At the top is a famous church called Sacre Coeur. I climbed the very narrow spiral staircase up to the dome of the church for a view of the whole city:
After this I grabbed my bag from the hostel and went to the airport. As I went from place to place over these ten days it was sometimes difficult to comprehend the deep historical significance of everything I was seeing. Many of the things I saw in Athens and Rome I have learned about in Latin and history courses in high school and at MLC, which is why I picked Athens and Rome – but it is strange to think that I was actually there. These ten days were so packed full and I will probably never see so much in ten days again. Back in Berlin now, I am starting to pull together sources for the term papers I need to write for my music and history class, and also getting things figured out for short 2-day trips for the weekends in April (don’t worry; the Luther sites are coming, I promise). That’s all for now!
Tschüss,
Collin
Spring break, part 1: Athens
Hello from Rome!
The past couple of weeks have been rather busy, with projects due and midterm tests last week. But it feels great to be done with them now and be on spring break without any school to worry about for 10 days. This also marks the half-way point of my semester abroad, which is pretty hard to believe. I feel like I am just now really starting to feel in place in Berlin. I know the second half is going to go even more quickly, with tentative trips planned for each remaining weekend.
Last Friday the 17th, spring break began for those in the Freie Universität’s international program. I flew to Athens early Friday morning. (Waking up at 2:30 AM is the price to pay for the cheaper, early morning flights.) By the time I got out of the Athens airport, found the right metro, and found my hostel, it was about noon and I could check in. Even though I was running on an hour and a half of sleep I kept moving because with only 3 days to see Athens, there was simply no time to nap! I started by walking through Athens’ Central Market, which is kind of like Pike Place Market in Seattle, if you’ve been there, only 4 times the amount of fish and fish smell. After a classic Greek lunch of souvlaki and wine, I kept going to Monastiraki Square, another market, but one with restaurants and gift shops. This offered my first glimpse of the Acropolis:
Next I saw the Athenian Roman Agora and wove through the streets towards Mt. Lycabettus, the highest point in the city. It didn’t take too long to climb and the view was well worth it – overlooking the entire city with the Acropolis and the gulf to the west:
My second day in Athens started with the National Archaeological Museum. There was too much to see inside to be able to take everything in, but I recognized many things which I have learned about in my curriculum at MLC in Rise of the West, Latin, and Homer’s Iliad, including decorated pottery from Ancient Athens depicting Greek myth, and Linear B tablets from Mycenaean civilization (riveting stuff, I know). After this I went to the Areopagus, near the base of the Acropolis, which gives a different view of the city. We know from Acts 17 that the Apostle Paul had spent time on the Areopagus, speaking to large numbers of Athenians about Christianity. It was so cool to have walked where Paul walked, while trying to imagine what the area looked like 2000 years ago.
Next I walked over to Socrates’ prison, where he was kept after being found guilty of corrupting the minds of the Athenian youth and was forced to drink the poison hemlock – (my pastor track classmates who went through Plato’s Apology can appreciate this). To end the day I climbed back up Mt. Lycabettus to see the city lit up after dark:
I started my last day in Athens by finally going up the Acropolis. At the base is the Teatre of Dionysus, where we could sit on the stone seats and have the same view as ancient Greek theatre-goers. Then, seeing the Parthenon at the top was my favorite part of the stay in Athens.
I headed back down the hill and to the Ancient Agora, with the Temple of Hephaestus on its crest, looking back towards the Acropolis:
Later in the afternoon I went around to the Temple of Olympian Zeus, with Hadrian’s Arch nearby, and just beyond that was Athens’ Panathenaic Stadium, which hosted the first modern Olympic games in 1896. Underneath we could go into a room where the collection of most of the Olympic torches are kept.
In the evening after dinner I was going to go back to my hostel because I had scheduled myself for another one of those 2:30 mornings to the airport, but it looked like it was going to be a good sunset so I went back up the Areopagus to watch. The view was stunning – the most impressive one I’ve ever seen:
Now I am in Rome and have another whole agenda to accomplish in a few short days! Tomorrow I am meeting up with a couple of my friends from the program to start walking around Rome. That’s all for now! Watch for my next post, hopefully in the next week or so, to hear about the rest of spring break.
Tschüss,
Collin